|
HOW TO USE YOUR LATCH HOOK TOOL
|
| Loop a piece of yarn around the hook, behind the latch | Push the hook down through one square and up the one immediately above until the latch is through. Then pull the hook back slightly, just far enough until the latch begins to close. | Bring the two ends of yarn across, into the eye of the hook. | Pull the hook back slowly the latch will close and grab the yarn. Release the two ends of yarn and pull hook out. | Keeping the two ends even, tighten the knot by giving it a slight pull |
| WORKING FROM A PATTERN |
| Arrange the page numbers of the pattern in order of the Layout Map, starting
with the page that will form the bottom left hand corner. E.g. if there are say
6 pages in your pattern then you arrange them this way : page 4, 5, 6, 1, 2,3.
Always leave at least 1 of blank canvas all the way around the design. This needs to be turned under when you have finished hooking and either binding sewn on, or you can use Iron-On binding. If your rug is made from acrylic yarn, then I suggest coating the back with Saf-T-Bak compound. This will make it non-skid, and also add bulk to your rug. It also holds it together when being machine washed. This is not necessary with pure wool, as wool is quite heavy and not prone to slipping on floors I do not recommend washing pure wool rugs. Pure wool naturally repels dirt anyhow and can be vacuumed in the normal manner. If you need to have it cleaned take it to a professional cleaner. Working from a graph pattern is not as daunting as you may think. You will see the graph is marked off into sections, each section comprising of one hundred squares. In each of one small square is a letter or symbol. All patterns come with a key i.e a letter or symbol showing its designated color. Each small square represents a stitch. |
|
The canvas when looked at closely has parallel horizontal threads and twisted vertical threads. The knots are made over the horizontal threads. |  |
| Start at the lower left hand corner of the canvas, remembering to leave an
inch to the left and bottom of the design, this extra canvas you turn under and
bind when the rug is completed
Commence hooking following the graph and symbols for the color required. Hook all the way across then start the next row. You may like to hook one section (one hundred small squares) at a time, I find this is easier to find your place the next time you pick up your work, especially with the Graph & Latch Canvas as it is marked in the same way as your pattern. After you do a few inches in this manner you will see how easy it really is. It certainly provides more definition than painted or stamped canvases and you are always sure you will be using the right color. Often times painted or stamped canvases do not correctly depict the right shade of color |
|
(Example of a graph) |
 |
| For a more finished appearance, rugs and wall hangings should be bound.
You can use either a sew on binding or an iron on. To finish without binding, cut canvas at least 3 holes beyond the outside edge of the design, fold to back of rug , match mesh and baste in place. |
||
| To finish with binding, cut canvas at least 3 holes beyond the outside edge of the design, then cut the corners diagonally about away from the pile. |  |
|
| Then with right side facing you, sew one edge of the binding as close as possible the knotted edge. Turn so the back is facing you, then fold back and sew the other edge of the binding to the back of the rug |  | |
| Miter corners and stitch down |  | |
| Finishing a wall hanging: Start at upper corner, sew on binding around both sides and bottom of the rug Then with right side facing you, sew one edge of the binding as close as possible the knotted edge of the top of the rug, turn over so the back is facing you, then sew down making sure you will have enough room to insert a rod or piece of dowel through. Alternatively you can just bind the rug in the normal manner, then to hang, sew on large wooden curtain rings, slide over a wooden rod, add wooden finials to the ends of the rod and hang. |  |
|
HOOKING & BINDING OTHER THAN RECTANGULAR
Starting at the left hand side of the design hook across one row at a
time, making sure not to go outside the edge marking the limits of the
design. When hooking is completed, trim the unworked canvas approximately one inch away from the design. 
|
| TRIM TO SHAPE | SEW TO BACK Ensure you sew securely to canvas, not the hooked yarn. Sew these securing stitches at the intersection of the trimmed edge of the canvas. |
SEW ON BINDING Sew on one side of binding around the outside, then easing the fullness, making small pleats if necessary to the binding and evenly sew the other edge. You should use small stitches so that every square of the canvas is caught along the outer and inner edges of the binding to insure against unravelling during cleaning |
HOW TO MAKE LATCH HOOKED PILLOWS
(Special thanks to
Katherine for these instructions
| Hooking a pillow or cushion cover is exactly the same as hooking a
rug. When the hooking is finished trim the unused canvas leaving 1.1/2 around all sides of the hooked area. Cut a piece of strong backing fabric 1 larger all around than the hooked area. Place right side of fabric backing face to face with the right side of the hooked canvas (the side with the long ends!) and baste or pin into place. Hand sew three sides as shown, and trim excess canvas and backing from stitch line. Clip corners and turn right side out. Fill with pillow stuffer, down or other material. Hand sew opening. |
 |
HOW TO JOIN PIECES
 These instructions are copyrightSpin-A-Yarn Please visit their page for more information. |
